Knowledge Base

A. "DE" stands for "Drive End". This is the end of the motor that usually contains the fan and usually has a larger diameter shaft. "CE" stands for "Commutator End". This is the end of the motor where the brushes and commutator are. Motors that are specified as "no CE shaft" do not have a shaft extending from this end.

A. "CW" stands for "ClockWise" rotation and "CCW" stands for "Counter-ClockWise" rotation. These abbreviations are normally used in conjunction with "DE" and "CE" to indicate the perspective of the armature rotation. For instance: "CCWDE" would indicate Counter-ClockWise rotation when viewed from the Drive End – this is the default for all WarP Motors with the exception of the TransWarP 7 which is neutrally timed from the factory (but may be ordered with advanced timing. CWDE would indicate "ClockWise rotation when viewed from the Drive End. Most vehicles require CCWDE, however, some vehicles (i.e. Honda transmissions) may require CWDE. You should verify the rotation prior to ordering as the timing can be requested to be advanced timed for the rotation of the motor.

A. Timing an electric motor refers to the position of the brushes on the commutator. Normally, brushes are fixed into a position on the commutator during the manufacturing process. The position they are normally set at from a manufacturer is a "neutral" position. A "neutral" position allows the motor to operate and perform almost identically in CCWDE and CWDE rotations at normal voltages. A normal voltage for most series wound motors in a neutral timed arrangement is generally less than 96 volts. Above this voltage motors should almost always be advanced in the direction of their normal rotation in order to reduce arcing, improve RPMs, and to provide increased performance at higher voltages. CAUTION: If a motor is advance timed and then powered to run in the opposite direction of the advancement, significant arcing damage and could result if high power is applied! Regen should not be attempted with motors that been advance timed!

A. All new WarP Motors have pre-drilled holes that allow the commutator end-bell to be removed and the brushes repositioned in a neutral, or an advanced position, either CWDE or CCWDE. The WarP, ImPulse, and TransWarP Motors are each advanced ~12 degrees. The WarP 8 motor is advanced ~10 degrees. The amount of advancement is based upon the width of the brushes, the number of commutator bars, the diameter of the commutator and various other factors that are monitored when the motor is run on a dynomometer. The proper terminology used to describe an advanced timed motor would be "advanced timed, CCWDE" or "advanced timed CWDE". The term "retarded" that is often used to describe the timing of ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) vehicles is not applicable to electric motors. You may simply loosen 4 bolts and rotate the bell housing in the direction you desire to advance the timing from the neutral position. All of our motor cases are stamped with “CW” “N” and “CCW” - you can determine the advance state by seeing which commutator end bell bolt is aligned with the letters stamped in the case.

A. Our Motors may only be ordered through any Authorized Dealer. A list of Authorized Dealers is available on our web page at https://www.go-ev.com/dealers.html

A. NetGain Motors, Inc. will work with our DC motor manufacturer – Warfield Electric in order to ascertain your specific needs and develop a motor to meet your needs. Custom motor options, such as special materials, components, shaft splining, special composition brushes, or other variances from standard configurations are available at an additional cost. Contact NetGain Motors, Inc. with your needs and we will provide a quote

A. Replacement parts and components can be ordered through any Authorized Dealer

A. In brief: "NO"! We receive this question on almost a daily basis! If you figure out a method of actually getting more energy out of something than you put into it – please let us know immediately! To date, no one has figured out how to accomplish this feat – and though you aren't going to receive a ticket for trying, there are certain laws that you would be in violation of. Though windmills and solar cells may certainly be used to help charge batteries, most of the motors we sell are for use in vehicles that can draw between 340,000 watts (for a short time), and 15,000+ watts at highway speeds. If you have the time and plenty of sunlight and wind, these resources could certainly replace at least some of the energy consumed – just not as fast as people generally use it, or as quickly as you may want.

A. Certainly, (AC Motors would be a MUCH better option) but don't submerge them, and protect them from saltwater. It is extremely difficult to create a watercraft with 10-12 hours worth of wide-open power with todays generally available battery technology.

A. These wires are connected to a normally closed 120C thermal switch. On 11” and 13” diameter motors a 150C thermal switch is used. This switch is used to determine whether a motor is nearing a temperature that could cause internal damage to the motor. Some people refer to this switch as a “nuisance switch”. We do not suggest that this switch be used to automatically disable the motor if a
heat condition arises as circumstances may require driving the vehicle to a safe area before shutting down. Some people use this switch to keep a contactor open by applying 12-volts to the switch. If the voltage is dropped (by the switch opening), then a light could be lit, or a buzzer sounded to indicate a potential problem exists.

A. Some WarP Motors, TransWarP Motors, and ImPulse 9 Motors have a brush wear indicator. If you look carefully into the connector you will see that the round black connector actually accepts flat, female, tab connectors. When the brushes
wear to a point where the brush wear indicator wire touches the commutator, a voltage equal to the commutator voltage will be fed through the brush wear indicator connector. As this could be a high voltage, appropriate care should be given if this connector is used. Once the brushes wear to the point where the wire touches the commutator surface if is necessary to replace the brushes quickly or
damage to the commutator could occur from the indicator wire.

A. The TransWarP Motors are not a motor with a transmission. Rather the Drive End of the TransWarP Motors have a 1.370”, 32-tooth, involute splined shaft that matches a Chevrolet Turbo 400 transmission output shaft. The drive end bell has been pre-drilled to accept an optional “shorty” tail-shaft housing. The output shaft accepts an optional industry standard 1350 series slip-yoke for easy connection to almost any manufacturers drive-shaft (with matching 1350 series yoke. The
commutator end shaft has also been increased in size to 1.125” with a 1/4” key-way. This allows easy coupling of WarP Motors to TransWarP Motors. These motors were designed to be part of the EMIS System that was available from NetGain Motors, Inc. You can couple a WarP Motor to a TransWarP Motor of the same size for direct drive applications.

A. Our motors like to spin 2000-4000 RPMs. Running the motors at very low RPMs will generally draw significant amperage and not allow the fan to cool the motor. Direct drive works well in racing applications, however it is not the best choice for a daily street driven vehicle. The generally accepted rule of thumb is this: Direct drive will require twice the motor and twice the controller of vehicle with a transmission. This means you would have to use a WarP 9 coupled to a TransWarP 9 in an application where a single WarP 9 would normally suffice if a transmission was used. Additionally, if a single Zilla 1K controller could have been used, you will need a Zilla 2K for a direct drive application. Additionally, you must force air cool direct drive motors if the normal RPMs of the driven vehicle are below 2000 RPMs.

A. You should visit our Web Page (https://www.go-ev.com/dealer_app.html) and fill out the online form completely. If you prefer you can print a copy and FAX it back to us. You must have a valid existing business with state resale sales tax number in order to even begin the process. We also consider proximity to other Dealers, experience converting vehicles to electric, and other factors, web only Dealers will not be considered.

A. The answer to this question depends upon MANY factors! We would be happy to discuss which motor we feel meets your needs the best, and to run your requirements through our motor selection software. The first question you should ask is: What is the intended purpose of the vehicle? Will it be used as a “daily driver”? Will it be used strictly for racing? Will it be a performance vehicle, or
will it be designed for greatest range between charges? In addition to knowing the answers to these questions, you should have some realistic thoughts relating to:
1. Top speed to be maintained
2. Percent grade the vehicle will travel on
3. Wind resistance (frontal area) of the vehicle
4. Total vehicle weight (with driver/passengers/load)
5. Final gear ratio
6. Tire Diameter
7. Voltage to be supplied to the motor
8. Coefficient of drag
9. Battery internal resistance

A. VOLTs=RPMs in an almost linear manner. If you double the voltage you will double the RPMs of the motor. Usually, RPMs increase just slightly more than double as most losses are fixed. You will notice that the performance graphs for our motors are all at 72 Volts. If you plan on running at 144 volts you can simply multiply the RPMs by 2. AMPs=Torque. Torque will remain constant if the
amperage does not change, regardless of the RPMs. If you look at our 72 Volt graphs and find a ft. lbs. of torque and the amps required to produce that torque, you can simply double the RPMs if you are planning to run at 144 volts, - the torque will be produced at twice the RPMs if the amperage doesn't change. If you increase the AMPs, the torque will also increase, but in a non-linear manner that is very difficult to extrapolate.

A. Your budget and performance expectations will normally be the deciding factor, but generally speaking you should consider a voltage between 120 and 156 volts to the motor armature. Motors should never see more than 170 volts to the armature. However, the battery pack voltage should be as high as the controller will allow if using lead-acid batteries. You should generally have a higher pack voltage (ideally) than the motor voltage due to a condition referred to as “voltage sag”. When most lead-acid batteries are required to deliver 1000-2000 Amps the battery voltage can easily sag to 5-5.5 volts per battery. Lead-acid batteries have been known to explode during racing applications from heavy discharges – a credit to the Zilla controllers! However, if the voltage of a 12 volt battery sags to 6 volts, the motor will only see ½ the voltage you intended, and consequently only spin at ½ the RPMs!

A. The only controllers that were ever recommended in a pure electric vehicle application by NetGain Motors, Inc were the Zilla Controllers from http://www.cafeelectric.com! You may certainly use other controllers, such as the ever popular Curtis 1231C, NetGain Controls, Raptors, T-Rex's and Logitech Systems – just to name a few of the more popular and highly regarded EV controllers. Due to the communications necessary in the EMIS System, Alltrax brand motor controllers are required in this application, no other controller will currently work.

A. With no load and high voltage these motors can spin to excess RPMs EXTREMELY quickly! The motors should ONLY be spun at no load with a maximum of 12 volts. The bearings are rated to 14,000 RPMs, however we do not recommend running these motors beyond 5500 RPMS (7800 RPM for the TransWarP 7). For short durations (i.e. drag racing) the motors have been known to approach 10,000 RPMs, but this is strongly discouraged! If high RPMs are an essential requirement of your application you should consider requesting Kevlar banding and other optional modifications that can be performed at the factory or by Authorized Service and Support Dealers.

A. An excellent resource is your local chapter of the Electric Auto Association. These groups have been doing conversions to pure electric for 30+ years and have extensive knowledge. Some of the Members of the EAA are world renown for their abilities. There are numerous books available, and most of our Dealers are willing to discuss your project with you and offer guidance advice. There is also a very active discussion group on the internet called the EVDL. Our Authorized Dealers are the best resources in the world. They have generally completed numerous conversions and will work with you to supply parts and insight into a vehicle conversion.

A. The EVDL is the Electric Vehicle Discussion List. You can find all the details needed to subscribe and view the archives at: http://www.evdl.org/

A. You will obviously need an electric motor. You'll also need a motor controller, and a device to act as the throttle and signal the motor controller as to the power needed - a 5K potentiometer is by far the most typical method, but HALL effect would be a better choice IMHO. You'll also need batteries, a battery charger(s), possibly a battery equalizer system, battery boxes, a DC-to-DC converter, a transmission adapter plate, lots of cable, lugs, connectors and wiring.

A. First pick a vehicle you like that is in good condition. It is not uncommon for people to keep EVs for many years. As the weight of the vehicle will probably increase (I've never seen one that decreased), consider the gross vehicle weight constraints. Choose a lightweight vehicle with strong suspension and brakes - sports cars and small pick-up trucks make ideal candidates. Do not change the ride height of the vehicle, or the ride characteristics. The heavier the vehicle, the more likely you are to be dissatisfied with the range and performance.

A. NO! The typical range of an EV is 25-50 miles on level terrain – depending upon the batteries and weight of the vehicle. Even with the most advanced battery chemistries currently available this is beyond current technology. And the same goes for recharging the batteries in 5 minutes.

A. At first this sounds plausible, but using $5.00/gallon fuel to derive $1.00 per gallon fuel is only the beginning of the issues surrounding this. Generators are noisy. If you try to quite them you will reduce their ability to produce electricity. When generators are running they typically produce in one hour more pollutants that 250 hours of driving an ICE. Even in a lightweight vehicle you will require
around 150 amps at 144 volts to maintain 60 MPH – that's more than a 20Kw generator! And, most generators are not designed for on highway!

A. Though capacitors offer very high power density, their energy densities are very low (the opposite of fuel cells). Super-capacitors (aqueous based) and ultra-capacitors (organic based) usually become a slave to the batteries. There is potential for the use of capacitors in EVs, particularly when used with regen braking.